Is the Fashion Industry Abandoning Size Diversity?

In her Critic’s Notebook for the New York Times, Vanessa Friedman makes the case that the fashion industry is abandoning any pretense of embracing size diversity. Ultrathin is in, she says. All signs point to the political and cultural winds blowing in a different direction:

“Peer pressure to diversify the runway in the wake of the #MeToo and Black Lives Matter movements led to a noticeable shift in conceptions of beauty, Mr. Bonnouvrier said. But with D.E.I. now under scrutiny as part of the Trump administration’s war on wokeness, its fashion expression, including diversity of size, is under pressure. A retreat to the most conservative and traditional approach for showcasing clothes means a retreat to old-fashioned stereotypes of beauty. And that generally translates to homogenous, largely white and thin models, despite the fact that such body types are not representative of the fashion-buying population at large.”

Surprising? No

Respect for diversity in fashion has always been a tough challenge. High fashion, in particular, relies on scarcity, craftsmanship, and high price points that reinforce social hierarchies. Fashion media and industry gatekeepers – such as editors, designers, and celebrities – have long dictated trends, contributing to the perception of fashion as an elite space. The emphasis on certain body types, eurocentric beauty standards, and designer labels further upholds exclusionary norms.

The Case for Resistance

Knowing that size diversity is not a comfortable fit for the fashion industry hardly makes it pointless to pursue. We subscribe to the calling to never let them get you down. Colleen Schindler-Lynch expresses this thinking well in her chapter of the textbook Fashion Education. Writing about diversity in fashion illustration, she says:

“I teach in an area where I do not see myself reflected in the images I encounter. As a middle-aged, plus-sized, petite woman, I do not exactly fit the image of what the industry submits as fashionable. Oh, I have style! Don’t get me wrong, but I do not fit the stereotypical elongated, youthful beauty model preferred today.

“Years ago, my inner saboteur concluded I would not change the world. I was not capable of affecting the widespread change that is necessary. Instead, I tried to reorient the direction of my lens. I may not be in a position to have a prominent voice in the global fashion industry, but what is within my scope of influence is my classroom. I can make sure we have necessary discussions, that my classroom would be a creative outlet for my students and that it would be a safe, diverse and inclusive space for all.”

So no, we do not need to feel daunted by political and cultural whims that deny the undeniable diversity of humanity. The truth of our diversity and the wisdom of respecting it will prevail. Lies have a way of falling apart.

The fashion industry needs customers and we come in all sizes and shapes. We need not hide nor shrink from this challenge.

Click here for free access to Friedman’s thoughts on this and here for perspective on the enduring value of diversity and inclusion.

Caricature of Madame De Latude, illustration by Leonetto Cappiello / WikiArt

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March 22, 2025